Do Singaporeans do this every night?

I had an unexpectedly free evening yesterday, and leaped upon it with alacrity (!) - I still had a few things left to get for friends at home.

Shopping in Singapore is a rush - literally - everyone seems to be rushing from one place to another. Each person has a purpose, and walks rapidly towards his or her destination (no side trips) talking on a handphone or to a friend (who has a similar purpose). It's like being caught up in an inexorable tide of humanity.

If you are a bemused tourist, trying to figure out whether to take the MRT to Somerset or to Orchard, you're going to get run over unless you figure it out quickly.

I was surprised to find that the pushcarts that used to dominate Clarke Quay were nowhere to be found... lots of construction, but Singapore (in its infinite wisdom) has moved them elsewhere. Alas, I have not the time to find them. Orchard Road is either a shopper's paradise (or nightmare) - every store imaginable, from hawker stalls to Burberry and Cartier.

What surprised me was the sheer number of people out - on a Wednesday night, after 9 p.m. - do they do this all the time? and who buys things from Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo and Gucci and Tiffany? Puzzles me... cause it's definitely not me.

Shopping in Singapore is quite an experience - phew - and I'm glad I'm done.

Adventures in the Garden

Last night we decided to leave early (at 5:30 pm - early!) and visit the Singapore Botanic Gardens. They are over 140 years old - there must be some funny math in the brochure, because it also said they were originally founded in 1822. Sounds more like 183 years to me, but who's counting?

We found fruit trees and nut trees and strange looking hibiscus trees. The most interesting part of the gardens for me was an Evolution Garden - the theme of the entire garden is how the world evolved - the plants, the rocks, the trees. As you walk, the garden spirals down, and you pass through the evolution of ferns, flowers, fruit-bearing trees, and so on. It was really cool - and even cooler at dusk with the lights playing on the rock walls. It has only been open for a few months, so I'm struggling to find a picture - but it's impressive. That alone was worth the visit to the Botanic Gardens.

More pictures can be found in this link http://www.fishesnpets.net/explore/explore/BotanicGardens01012005/

A long walk later, down to the Ginger Garden, and we found - surprise - an elegant outdoor restaurant, with linen tablecloths, candles for every table, and a well-presented wine list. We regretfully declined the wine (as I had a conference call later that night) but enjoyed the dinner and the ambiance. All in all, a lovely evening!

http://www.sbg.org.sg/index.asp

News from here and there

I'm back in Singapore! I spent a rare and lazy evening yesterday reading and swimming... but I'll admit that my idea of a lazy swim probably doesn't match that of most people. I haven't quite recovered from the rush and crowds in Chatuchak enough to do any souvenir shopping. Maybe tonight... I can still zip my suitcase, but it's close - and I almost had to jettison some of the books I brought. But I found another bag :-)

I've spent the last week trying to learn a few phrases of Thai, such as korp khun ka (thank you). Having practiced at every opportunity, I'm now trying to break this habit (as Singaporeans do not speak Thai!). I get some rather odd looks when I forget.

Derek finished his first international distance triathlon today, in a brilliant 3:06:33. This includes a 1.5K Swim, a 40K bike, and a 10K run. Makes me feel tired and hungry just thinking about it.

Sabrina says that it feels like I've been gone for a year - and to her it probably does! Three weeks is a long time when you're five years old. She's interested in some new classes, now that soccer is over. Hmm... brings up an entire new line of speculation... karate? ballet? Rock Climbing for Kindergartners? (no wait, she could teach that). Any suggestions?

Fiona is well - last I heard she was trying to climb on Sabrina's head.

As for me - I am counting down the days!

One farang and too many baht

Back in Bangkok today, and I'll be heading to Singapore this afternoon! Only five days left before I return to the States.

Before I forget - I did indeed see four elephants in Korat, walking by the side of the road. Pretty cool. They were an incongruous sight (to me) among the vehicles that crowd the streets of Thailand. You can imagine the view from the van ("...car, car, motorbike, car, van, bicycle, elephant...wait... elephant?")

I've found some fun gifts in Thailand. I have a vague feeling that as a farang (foreigner) I've spent far too much on certain souvenirs. Piengphen and Dusanee took us out to Chatuchak market, which defies description - there are over 15,000 merchants selling everything from Thai silk to furniture to satays (see link http://www.asiatraveltips.com/PicturesofChatuchakMarket.shtml) . The price that is quoted to you when you're with two Thai women is closer to realistic. But I was missing a few things, and went out on my own last night - let's just say that bargaining isn't my strong point! I didn't pay exhorbitant prices, but I strongly suspect that I left some happy Thai merchants behind me.

Ah, well (philosophically)... I like what I bought. Life is good.

Ya Mo and Karaoke

All visitors to Korat should make a pilgrimage to Ya Mo to pay their respects.

Khun Ying Mo, or Ya Mo, as it is more commonly called, is the statue of Thao Suranari in front of the old gate of "Pratu Chumpon" on the west side of the city. This monument was erected in 1934 to commemorate the heroic deed of Khun Ying Mo, wife of the Deputy Governor of Khorat during the reign of King Rama III, who saved the city from the invasion of the Laotian army led by Prince Anuwong. Ya Mo sounds like a strong-willed lady - she organized her people, convinced the Laotian soldiers to be sympathetic, and "borrowed" weapons for the attack. Her story can be found in either of the two links below.

http://www.dusit.com/hotel/pkk/attraction/attr00052/print/
http://www.thekoratpost.com/ladymo.html

The pictures don't really do it justice. The statue is in the center of the square. You first buy a garland, and a lotus bouquet, including three joss sticks (like incense) and a gold leaf between two pieces of paper. Then you remove your shoes, light the joss sticks, kneel below the statue, and "wai" (hands folded, head bowed - traditional Thai greeting or mark of respect). Many ask for blessings for themselves or for their families.

When you are done, you place the joss sticks in an urn, hang the garland around the statue, and touch the gold leaf onto the statue of the lady. I accidentally set my leaf on fire when I lit the incense sticks, but everything else was right! When you leave, if you walk through the arch, it is a certainty that you will someday return to Korat.

When you do return to Korat, you may find yourself listening to an accented rendition of "Take Me Home, Country Road" - formerly by John Denver and lately by SaNgar, our guide. I haven't space for a description of the Karaoke, but it was a blast. Maybe in the next edition...

Journey to Korat

Nakhon Ratchasima, often known as Korat, is the next stop on our journey. Korat is about 2.5 hours from Bangkok, in the south central part of Thailand, on the Mun River. We have a driver and a van reserved for the next three days to take us to and from Korat. I'm attaching a link to some pictures, and I'll edit later if I find more information.

http://www.asiatravel.com/nakhonratch_info/intro.html

This will be my first visit to Korat, so I don't know exactly what to expect - but I am certain of finding the warm hospitality that we have found already on our visit to Thailand. Our evening is already planned, and the rumor from our coworkers is that our Korat colleagues enjoy Karaoke. I suspect we may be singing for our supper tonight!

I have heard that in parts of Thailand, it is difficult to find and to use large construction equipment, so elephants are often used to haul debris and building materials. I'll let you know if I see any elephants.

The Spice of Life

This one is dedicated to Thai food and to two very different restaurants!

Yesterday we went out with one of our friends, Piengphen (sounds like pyeng-pen), who took us to a small local restaurant. She ordered for us (as the menu was entirely in Thai) and we had soup, some spiced meat with a sweet chili sauce (sort of a beef-jerky texture), a shredded carrot and cabbage mixture (think spicy cole-slaw), and a chicken dish (texture of ground beef). It was terrific - and all for about 380 baht (about US$10 total). The soup was the spiciest - phew - it hits you after about five or six bites. But the flavor was fantastic.

Last night Yiming and I found another local restaurant, on Sukhumvit Soi 11 (we didn't realize we had walked that far, but that's another story). This one offered an intriguing atmosphere - lighted candles, low tables with cushions on the floor, and a picture menu (which should have been our first clue). We had red snapper served with a spicy side and a non-spicy side. According to Piengphen, it is bad luck to flip the fish over, so this fish was propped up in the dish as if it were swimming and the spicy / non-spicy mixtures were on each side to hold it upright.

Anyway - not spicy and spicy were about the same, and we realized that we had fallen into the classic trap of a restaurant targeted for Westerners. It was still good, but... hmmm... not authentic Thai.

On a happy random note, my pants are too loose to wear. The combination of a demented exercise routine and the lack of butter, cream, and pasta is doing wonderful things to my waistline. The food - despite being fabulous - isn't as heavy as what you find in the States (and the portions are more realistic). Good news for me!

First day in Thailand

Sawàt dii ka!

There is an interesting peculiarity to the Thai language. A man would say sawàt dii krap and a woman would say sawàt dii ka (which means hello). It's different from Romantic languages in that the feminine modifier refers to the person, not to the object or phrase. Adding the words krap or ka to a phrase is considered polite.

I'm afraid that's the current limit of my Thai, though!

The hotel is beautiful and yet again I am struck by the amount of work that goes on behind the scenes for the guests to enjoy their experience. I accidentally opened the wrong door en route to the elevator and found a man sitting in a dimly lighted room on the floor, folding towels. It seemed in stark contrast to the luxury found outside the door.

Today we leave at 7 a.m. for Teparuk Rd plant. I'm up early so that I can squeeze a short workout into my schedule. Looking back, these blogs are heavily weighted towards exercise. What can I say? :-) I am determined not to come back from this trip with five extra pounds (and it's harder than you think with the bewildering variety of food). I have the time... I'm still waking up absurdly early... why not?

Of course, its always possible that Derek and his dad have finally rubbed off on me!

Chôk dii (or chôk dii ka) - cheers!

Intercontinental Paint Thinner

The hotel in Singapore has decided to do some basic maintenance on each floor, including additional staining to the wooden walls (which are everywhere) and near the elevators. The net result is an odd combination of epoxy and paint thinner smells, which makes me think that it must smell very much like home (with the floor refinishing). Strange parallels.

I've noticed that restaurants here don't seem to want to let you leave - as soon as you finish your meal, your server vanishes. If he reappears, he manages to avoid making eye contact. Happened to me twice today, so I can only suspect that it's a Singapore requirement!

I'm sleepy beyond comprehension. I walked and walked and walked and walked today... I was in a random, wandering mood and had the luxury of time. I became happily lost in Singapore, found my way back, and discovered an Italian coffeehouse which specializes in rich frothy Italian hot chocolate. Wonderful place - I must look them up when I return to Singapore, as they also have homemade gelato.

I'm reading a book by Paulo Coelho, who wrote the Alchemist (one of my favorite books of all time). This one is called the Zahir, and it seems to exactly reflect many of my own questions and doubts. Sometimes a book clicks with you at exactly the right time - this is such a book. I highly recommend it.

Off to Thailand tomorrow morning!

Eyebrow Embroidery

In the midst of a surreal dinner, I was paging through a magazine, and read,

Does the thought of drawing your eyebrows every day for the rest of your life make you feel frustrated? We have the solution at Erabrow - eyebrow embroidery!

I swear, SWEAR, I am not kidding. But I'll admit I read the article three times in disbelief trying to figure out if the magazine publisher was sending out a spoof to his readers.

What is eyebrow embroidery, you ask? I had a mental vision of tattoo-like tiny flowers and vines interwoven amongst eyebrow hairs, but no. They are very clear that it is not like a tattoo. Eyebrow tattoos (did you know these existed?) can fade to a nasty, greenish-blue hue after a year or more, but Erabrow stays a lovely mocha brown hue.

For those of you considering this, or who just like to read odd news, I'm including the link to the website.

http://derma-aesthetics.com/07Erabelle.htm

Enjoy! And do let me know if you decide to go for it.

Random musings

I wish I had crazy adventures to recount today, but it's been a slow day.

Last night's dinner was a bizarre combination of raw salmon (gravlax?), a marinated chicken piece shaped like a pear, a deep-fried something (?), two cookies, and a small bite of cheesecake. I took advantage of the complimentary hors-d'oeuvres on my floor because I was too sleepy for dinner. It left me feeling somewhat odd, and craving fruits and salads. I don't think I'll do that again.

It's a quiet day at work today. Many of the people here are taking holidays this weekend with family. There are still many things to do (I've been on two calls already, and it's not even 10 a.m.) but I suspect things will be quieter here in the afternoon.

Planned adventures for the weekend... let's see... for starters, I plan to actually eat in a restaurant for dinner. I should finally be able to stay awake long enough to do that! I'll wander down to Boat Quay and Clarke Quay, and maybe do some shopping on Orchard Road. I'll be a typical tourist for a day!

Of Cabbies and Sings

Singapore cab drivers are a most intriguing group of people. They are well-versed in facts about their city-state, and will quote them to you at any opportunity. They are unusually well-travelled - last night's driver had just returned from a visit to his son in England, and will be visiting his daughter in Australia next month. They can find any address (do they have tests on this?) and are experts in maneuvering through traffic. They are very dedicated to their work and to their country. Two drivers are assigned to the taxi - one to the day shift and one to the night shift. In typical Singapore fashion, there is no waste - the taxi is always in use. Another driver was concerned about taking a vacation because he would not be there to take care of his taxi to make sure that it continued to run.

Sings are my clever way of referring to the currency here - technically Singapore dollars but the common parlance is 40Sing (meaning $40 Singapore dollars). The US exchange rate is not nearly as favorable as on my last visit, so everything is more expensive, including taxis.

Last night was a lot of fun for me - I was invited to visit with a friend and his family at their house. David has a lovely wife, Clare, a 3.5 year old daughter, Julia, and a new baby Stuart (who is only 9 weeks old). I felt immediately at home - Julia was smart, lively, and enchanting. She has grown so much since I last saw her.

I'm still exercising a lot, but I'm getting lazier. My first workout was a brilliant 8 km. My second was a steady 5 km, and today's was a rushed 2 km. But I'm still doing it!

I called Derek and the girls today and had some interesting conversations. Derek sounded more relaxed than the last few times I've called (in the middle of leaving the house, trying to deal with floor refinishing, trying to get his computer working for a call). Sabrina was happy to talk to me, until she accidentally dropped the phone (cutting me off). When I called back, she was inconsolable. Fiona was happy to borrow the phone while Derek helped Sabrina. She told me about watermelons, butterflies, elephants, and a great big rock that she had found (and many other things that simply didn't translate!). Sabrina recovered well, but didn't really want to use the phone anymore. I think this trip is harder on her than on anyone else.

I miss everyone and am looking forward to leaving for home in two weeks. In the meantime... back to work!

What day is it, anyway?

It's Wednesday - I think - and I'm gradually adjusting to this time zone. I took a 4 hour nap yesterday, spent the next four hours on conference calls, and then went back to sleep. I popped awake at 3 a.m. convinced that I was already late - not conducive to going back to sleep - and abandoned the effort around 4:30 a.m.

The good news is that these early mornings are very good for me - sheer restlessness drives me to the fitness center! Yesterday was a 8km run and today I wimped out and only did 5 km.

Not much other news - yesterday was sort of an eat, sleep, and stagger-around-trying-to-look-awake day. Today should be a little easier.

Our house in Minnesota is thoroughly torn up - our floors are being completely refinished. Derek describes the house as a disaster of epic proportions, and I'm almost afraid to think about this. Hopefully the work will soon be done and my family will be back to normal!

Arrived in Singapore

I just arrived at the hotel and am trying to convince myself that it really is 2:30 a.m. I will probably try to get a short nap (1-2 hours) and then wake up (ZING!) and go exercise. It sounds virtuous, but in reality it's a coping mechanism for having your body be 13 hours off. In theory, the workout will get me moving and energized for the day (with no jet lag).

If this doesn't work, I'm going to be really tired tonight after my two meetings (which occur at 7 p.m CST and 9 p.m. CST respectively). It's going to be a long day.

Figured out high-speed internet access - check.
Computer on and communicating to work - check.
Clothes unpacked - check (okay, almost).

The flight was uneventful but long, and I did sleep for most of it. Wish me luck on my very, very, very long day!

Soccer day today!

Soccer day at the YMCA today... Sabrina played against a really good team. The coaches on the blue team looked quick, wiry, and lean - like they had played professional soccer in the past. It was quickly obvious that our team (yellow) was outclassed, but the coaches tried to make it fun for all of the kids. First one blue player switched to yellow... then another... and another... and they gave us most of their good players! It was one of the best examples of sportsmanship I've ever seen.

The kids had fun, but the blue team (even with half of the players borrowed) was still the victor. Sabrina took a ball to the face at close range, and was out for about ten minutes, but otherwise blocked many balls and made a breakaway goal attempt.

Fiona squirmed her way around the sidelines, climbing on Mommy, Daddy, and Grandma. Her favorite parts are cheering Sabrina on ("go, Brina!") and sharing in the post-soccer snacks. Patience, however, is not one of her virtues.

Much laundry planned today, so that I have something to pack - and so that the girls and Derek have something to wear for a few weeks!

Getting ready for a journey

Hey, this doesn't look that hard - even for a first-time blogger. Just for fun, I'll start this as a log of my adventures in Asia.

I'm getting ready to leave, finding Thai baht and Singapore dollars so that I can find a taxi from Changi airport at 1:00 a.m. on Tuesday.

Kid news:
Fiona and Sabrina went to the circus last night. Both girls were very sleepy, so they only made it through the first half of the show. The girls loved the aerialists, and Fiona has a renewed interest in her gymnastics class. I think she wanted to climb the tightrope.

Fiona has one more week in the Bumblebee (toddler) room. She moves into the Intermediate room, known as the Mighty Ducks, on August 22.

Sabrina has three more weeks until kindergarten!